With its linen-free wooden tables and paper menu drawn up weekly, the feeling in this relaxed room is unabashed simplicity, so what follows is nothing short of gastronomic shock. A stunning selection of house charcuterie features a round of smoked trout rillette, slices of house-smoked duck and several rustic terrines, the kind in which you can discern the various flavours, be they morsels of duck intermingled with pistachio, a mosaic of rabbit and sweetbreads, or brilliant wild boar speckled with fat. A roast of pork tender­loin delivers natural flavour thanks to chef Michael Potters’ reverence for his ingredients. Potters also has an eye for detail, slipping discs of walnut brittle and paper-thin chips of chioggia beet into a refreshing salad of heirloom beets, oranges and Fifth Town goat cheese. A thin rim of blood orange jelly is layered above a yogurt panna cotta with sweet-tart blackberries and jus nearby. More than a third of the accessible wine list features Prince Edward County wines. Mains $17–$26.