In the tiny tourist village of Southampton on Lake Huron’s east shore, the old converted train station has been home for the past 13 years to the gem that is Grosvenor’s. The decor deftly avoids predictable cottage kitsch in favour of mellow wood, white linens and moody lighting; service is attentive and exudes welcoming, small-town warmth. Yet even without all this charm, the food alone is worth the trip. The bar is set high at the outset with an amuse of very rare beef dotted with grainy mustard cream and fresh tarragon. A glistening morsel of seared Quebec foie gras perched atop a buttery brioche round is superb with tart Concord grape conserve and juicy orange segments. A breast of chicken is stuffed with wild mushrooms and red pepper concassée, joined by a gorgeous presentation of turned potatoes, white asparagus and a sweet beet. Desserts are done right, such as a two-bite angel food cake soaked in mango coulis and layered with vanilla bean crème anglaise. A good selection of Canadian wines. Mains $15–$58.