Easy to miss on the drive to Guelph, Morriston is worth a stop. Somebody had the wisdom to leave this 19th-century, main-street storefront intact. Comfortably dressed regulars, perhaps from the university, share the tall-ceilinged room with a few Tuscan landscapes and starving-artist oils. The eclectic menu, with one page each for starters and mains, trots the globe with items like seafood and mushrooms in sweet chili sauce. On one visit, chef Ken Hodgins incorporates Canadian notions with a saddle of Ontario lamb paired with northern Italian pumpkin gnocchi and solera vinegar jus. Diners dare not resist chai tea crème brûlée. Cheaper wines won’t threaten; international labels and 20 VQA blends are available at big-city prices. Many single-vineyard bottles and small, rarely seen vintners to choose from. Servers combine genuine savvy with small-town warmth. Many single-vineyard bottles and small, rarely seen vintners to choose from. Servers combine genuine savvy with small-town warmth. Worth the detour.