Fifteen years ago, renowned chef Michael Stadtländer and his family bought a farm and started cooking dinner for a maximum of 12 guests at a time. Today, the place has a global reputation, offering the epitome of local, seasonal gastronomy uniquely channelled through the chef’s whimsical but sophisticated imagination. The candlelit dining room is decorated with driftwood and found objects, but tables are formally dressed with heavy linen and fine cutlery. The eight-course dinner, served with gracious warmth and expertise by Stadtländer’s wife and son, changes according to the ingredients available from the farm. To start, perhaps a morsel of perch pan-fried in lemon-Pernod butter garnished with yellow fennel flowers. Roast squab picks up subtle sweetness from a blackberry wine marinade, the meat crowned with pan-seared foie gras and served with caramelized onions, minted peas and a rich blackcurrant-shallot sauce. Roasted in a wood-fired oven, an Eigensinn piglet yields juicy rack and shoulder cuts, and sliced kidney to enrich the jus; the belly meat is braised in spruce honey, beer and wild ginger. Dessert features the fruit of the moment—perhaps sour cherries from the garden turned into a strudel. Wine is strictly BYOB. Prix fixe $275.