With bare wood tables and a long, zinc-topped bar, this airy high-ceilinged space has an affable pub vibe. The fare possesses similar laid-back charm. Apps include uncommonly delicate hot and sour soup and greaseless carrot, green onion and potato pakoras sparked with tomato chutney. Mains generally follow the strong start set by the apps. Fillets of Lake Huron whitefish are pan-roasted, moist and flattered by flavourful cipollini, crispy fingerling potatoes and cubes of double-smoked bacon. Less beguiling is the thin, chewy rib-eye partnered with chive-sprinkled, buttermilky mashed potatoes and sweet roasted carrots. House-made desserts, such as blessedly unsweet caramelized pecan squares with vanilla-bourbon ice cream, delight. The wine list is tiny, the service friendly and efficient. Mains $17–$26.