Kingston’s limestone-clad grande dame entices—despite dated decor and a somewhat staid seasonal menu with French, Italian and Asian touches—thanks to a convivial atmosphere, an effervescent patio and food prepared without shortcuts. Pear and duck liver pâté is a sublime opener, a silky, subtly sweet preparation better enjoyed with the homemade bread than the overpowering rosemary-garlic crouton accompaniment. Tender pork ribs, glazed in a fiery chili barbecue sauce and served with crispy matchstick fries, are a carnivore’s bliss, though one day’s dry pistachio-crusted wild salmon on a bed of mesclun disappoints. Desserts delight, from a satiny chocolate and pear liqueur tart to an apple-berry crisp with brandied cream. Moderately priced wines. Mains $14–$34.