Housed in a Georgian mansion, this candlelit dining room draws summer tourists and celebrating locals year-round—bubbly and near-Toronto prices abound, as do Tom Jones hits on this night. Although the chef is talented, there are faults, albeit fixable ones, that prevent this restaurant from fulfilling its potential. Little thought has gone into the six-course tasting menu, which reads like Spinach 101. Butternut squash risotto stirs creamy al dente rice with spinach and chunks of squash; cinnamon-flecked whipped cream adds richness. Overcooked pan-fried salmon nestles on still more spinach, along with trumpet mushrooms and leeks bathed in a well-balanced chive-cream sauce. Orders off the menu are more successful: boneless lamb rib-eye, perfectly pink, shares the plate with plump roasted garlic, mushrooms and a wedge of polenta heady with herbs and parmesan. For dessert, soggy crust spoils a lemon tart’s lovely filling. Exclusively VQA wines. Servers are stretched on busy nights. Mains $25–$38.