Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
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Husband-and-wife team Scott Kapitan and Jacqui Vickers run this charming, two-level dining room in a majestic old house on Bloomfield’s main street. Candlelight dances off the latté- coloured walls and rural quietude prevails, unless a raucous party fills the restaurant’s balcony room above. A starter soup is a luscious purée of wild leek and potato that’s ascetic in its presentation yet screaming out with flavour. It’s a prelude to the honour Kapitan bestows upon high-quality ingredients, often sourced from local Prince Edward County producers. Shards of sweet rabbit intertwine with silken lard for a delicate rillette. Meanwhile, herbed pork-brandy pâté slathered on bread made with wine must is an unparalleled pairing. A puffy, crackling skin protects the luscious interior of duck confit, each moist bite in harmony with vinegar-kissed, braised red cabbage. On the other half of the plate, slices of rare, roasted duck breast are dusted with coarse salt and draped over a row of tiny sweet corn kernels. For dessert, a buttery caramel sauce drizzled over medjool date cake with rum ice cream is ethereal. A taste of terroir can be found in the many local wines by the glass. Mains $20–$28.
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