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RestaurantsOut of Town

Bijou

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThis is one of those restaurants whose whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Tucked in a laneway separated from the street by a parking lot, the cozy interior and the chalkboard menu of simple French comfort food made with local ingredients and continental touches flirt with bistro cliché, but owners Bronwyn and Aaron Linley have created a charmingly authentic experience. In true Gallic style, the menu changes frequently. A composed “Ploughman’s salad” of lightly spiced saucisson sec, pillowy farmer’s cheese, and sweet beets makes for a perfect pre-theatre meal, especially when followed by succulent pan-fried pork schnitzel. The spot prawn bisque with croutons is smooth and intensely flavourful. The only missteps are gnocchi with the texture of starchy mashed potatoes and a slightly runny but still delectable lemon pot de crème dessert with delicate shortbread discs. Brief but affordable wine list; friendly, eager staff. Lunch—available on Friday, Saturday and Sunday—is available a la carte. Three-course prix fixe $52.

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