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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • Algonquin Provincial Park
  • 705-633-5543 • 866-614-5355
Editorial Review

The dining experience begins on the dock of Algonquin’s Cache Lake, with the arrival of the wooden freighter canoe that delivers guests to the rustic pine lodge. An ever-changing five-course menu ($55) caters to locavores. A thin disc of eggy French toast, underscored with a stroke of maple syrup, balances a mousse of lightly smoked wild rainbow trout, tiny flecks of which add weight and texture to the playful amuse. A moat of mild curry soup, peppered with crisp traces of green apple and finished with slight heat, surrounds an island of slow-braised, crisp-skinned Kurobuta pork belly. A plate of grilled beef tenderloin builds upward from nutty brown-butter mashed potatoes with tempura shallots, to the beef, somewhat overcooked yet moist and nearly fork-tender, to a pine cone–size scoop of concentrated gorgonzola foam that lends perfect pungency to the mild cut of meat. Crackling-skinned but bland rainbow trout is less successful and in need of a smarter match than tomato concassée and potatoes roasted in duck fat. Unlicensed. No à la carte.

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