This large, busy spot has situated its dining room to maximum effect, picture windows looking up at a waterfall and old mill buildings. Tables are well spaced and well accoutred, and jazz (live on weekends) adds to the soothing ambience. Chef Jeff Crump is a slow-food pioneer in Ontario; his à la carte menu and a four-course Earth to Table tasting menu ($60, with wines $85) showcase meats and produce from local, eco-friendly farms. Roasted scallop and crunchy white asparagus is another happy pairing, joined by a salad of frisée, celery tops and other leaves, plus prosciutto and parmesan shavings. Lean, tender venison strip loin joins a crowd of diced root vegetables in a creamy sauce. Rib-sticking desserts include a gratin of roasted plum and pear, its warm sabayon spiked by mint and toasted almond. Canada provides the most interesting choices on the small wine carte. Servers range from cool, suave professionals to well-meaning local youth. Mains $23–$32.