Among the proliferation of good, cheap restaurants opening up around Bloor and Ossington, this one is likely to become a neighbourhood fave. Inside, it’s bare bones, with widely spaced tables and straight-backed chairs, peach- coloured walls hung with maps and a TV showing Spanish-language music videos. Named after Nicaragua’s capital, it incorporates such Central American staples as corn, plantain, yucca, avocado and, of course, pork. To start, ceviche is a must: the shrimp version, chopped up with red onion and red and green bell peppers, has a serious lime and chili bite. It’s served alongside thin, freshly fried slices of plantain for dipping. In mains, nacatamal, a pork and yucca dumpling, lacks the coriander and corn kernels of similar Mexican or Salvadorean treats; it’s too big and comes off as a bit stodgy. Instead, go for lomo de cerdo, a nicely grilled piece of juicy pork tenderloin squirted with lime and served with standard South American accompaniments: rice, beans, green salad and more perfect plantain chips. For those who crave a sweet finish, arroz con leche is a creamy, homemade rice pudding. For bevies, there is Corona or Heineken, or non-alcoholic house-made juices.