Restaurants GuideOther Latin

Julie’s Cuban star star good
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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 202 Dovercourt Rd. (at Foxley St.) View on map »
  • 416-532-7397
Editorial Review

Twinkling candles and mini-lights evoke a star-spangled tropical night, while a vintage sign and kitsch-laden shelves are a nod to both the space’s grocery-cum-diner past and to post-blockade Cuba. The food is every bit as fun as the space, especially salads (like creamy ripe avocado and sweet mango with the sharpness of red onion) and a variety of tapas-sized apps: perfect frituras de mais, golden, crispy, yet moist corn fritters served with sour cream, and tasty shrimp swimming in a not-so-hot “spicy” tomato salsa. Proteins dominate in mains, such as ropa vieja, a Cuban staple that features succulent strands of stewed beef in tomato sauce with underwhelming rice and black beans. Homemade desserts miss the mark: mango-banana crumble deserves a better companion than cheap vanilla ice cream; grainy filling humbles key lime pie. There are only a few wines, but the beers and cocktails—a mojito Cubano, for example—complement the menu nicely. Gracious, affable service. Mains $13–$23.

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