This Peruvian spot is the latest in the gradual Latinization of St. Clair west of Bathurst. Patrons look forward to the arrival of buttered bread and a saucer of bright green habanero chili–based salsa for spreading. Appetizers are large-portioned and include a quartet of calamari, grilled just enough to form sweet char marks on the outside, yet not so much as to make them tough. At lunch, chicken in escabèche brings a full breast smothered in sautéed onions with a zingy sauce. Tacu-tacu is perhaps more properly ordered as a side, though the fried mixture of beans and rice certainly makes for an excellent vegetarian meal.