The deep, dimly lit room is hung with paintings, and patrolled by a highly professional staff. Details are exemplary: Portuguese breads, oil and olives to nibble; an amuse of fresh cheese, honey and balsamic. It’s still the city’s first choice for fish—fresh black espada, for instance, a moist, delicate fillet set over loose, lightweight beetroot risotto and discreetly crowned with pineapple. Massive, juicy shrimp and sapid little clams find their way into an assorda of bread, garlic and coriander, cooked to porridge-like consistency and topped with a runny steamed egg. Perfect vege­tables—asparagus, artichoke, sweet potato—arrive as a side to boneless pheasant breast with a sauce of madeira and caramelized citrus; the crust of fresh herbs and garlic has more flavour than the meat. Classic Portuguese desserts take sugar and eggs to inventive heights, a hint of orange, for instance, cutting the richness of white chocolate flan. A famous wine list showcases Portugal’s best; madeira and port lovers will be pleased. Mains $30–$45.