Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
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Traditional and New Age Brazilian sounds set the lively rhythm for this welcoming, minimally elegant space that has settled on this cool stretch of Queen West. Sip the house cocktail, a sweet cachaça-based caipirinha, while perusing the well-edited menu that offers an array of tropical flavours. Bobo de camarão is a heady shrimp chowder with bites of cassava root, flecks of dried shrimp and coconut milk adding dimension. A Portuguese standard, croquettes of dried cod are given Brazilian flair with a sweet-and-sour lime and coriander relish. Generous mains include feijoada, the national black bean stew, which has been Toronto-ized by omitting the offal that would certainly be present in São Paulo. Frequent use of cashews and cassava makes for rich fare indeed. Desserts are disappointingly minimal (on a recent visit, only a passable passion fruit mousse and a flourless chocolate square were offered). Simple bistro–type wine list and beer from Brazil and Portugal. Mains $16–$24.
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