This charming Peruvian restaurant in the middle of the Harbord Street foodie strip is a long-standing favourite with pilgrims from nearby U of T and Latin America alike. Expert servers navigate the canopied terrace, often taking orders in Spanish. Although some menu items know no nationality (fettuccine with shellfish in a gruyère sauce, for example), most are the real Peruvian deal: a starter chicken tamale properly steamed in corn husks; steamed veg in a huancaina aji mirasol sauce of white cheese and chilies; ceviche of baby shrimp, squid and sea bass chopped small, the better to “cook” in its lemon-coriander marinade. Pollo acajú is grilled chicken breast crusted in ground cashews, lime juice and more coriander, served with sweet potatoes and beets. Andean veterans will be delighted to find alfajor, featherweight shortbreads layered with sweet, fudgey dulce de leche and whipped cream. A more than adequate wine list includes torrontes, a white Argentine varietal. Mains $17–$29.