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RestaurantsOther European

Country Style Hungarian

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThirty years ago, a bevy of Hungarian joints dotted the stretch of Bloor between Spadina and Bathurst. Today there is one sole bastion of fried meat and stick-to-your ribs goulash goodness. Country Style is enduringly endearing, its checked red and white tablecloths and photos of Budapest’s iconic Danube riverfront continue to charm both aging expats and starving students. Six types of schnitzel are available, each the circumference of a large dinner plate. Wiener schnitzel’s crisp and golden bread crumb crust keeps the thinly pounded veal moist and tender. Hearty chicken paprikash stew is thick and filling, but it tastes a bit dumbed down—more paprikash, please. Accompanying nokedli, almond-sized spaetzle dumplings, are buttery and delicious. Channeling old Budapest, the Country Style Wooden Plate brings enough meat to feed three. A massive cabbage roll nestled in tangy sauerkraut and sour cream arrives precedes the meal’s architectural masterpiece: wiener schnitzel, Parisian schnitzel lightly battered in egg and flour, and a link of Debreceni sausage are piled precariously atop fried potatoes, rice and sweetly pickled beets. Two steak knives anchor the swaying cathedral of carnivorousness. In the unlikely event that diners have room for dessert, the walnut and apricot crêpes are not to be missed. A reasonable selection of beer and Hungarian wine. Cash only.

  • map marker #1
    450 Bloor St. W.

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