With grimy windows, ersatz flowers and a fountain that gurgles like a malfunctioning toilet, it’s a miracle this place has slipped under the Restaurant Makeover radar. Aesthetics aside, the kitchen offers an authentic trip to Thailand with frequent forays into Laos. Appetizers include many of the usual suspects, but it’s worth exploring the less familiar. Mieng is a vibrant salad of poached chicken and shrimp, tart green mango, crunchy peanuts and cool cilantro mounded on squares of soft rice noodle. In mains, green curry is better than most, with juicy shrimp, al dente veg and sweet chunks of pineapple bathed in a light coconut sauce fragrant with kaffir lime. Billowing leaves of spinach spend a brief moment in a searing wok with meaty dried Chinese mushrooms; the thick sauce unleashes a smoky blast of garlic and chili. A disc of purple sticky rice topped with warm egg custard and coconut cream provides an exotic finish. Service can be painfully slow. Mains $9.25–$15.