Beneath the beatifically smiling effigy of a scarlet cow, this resto’s bright and utilitarian dining room receives a steady stream of hungry visitors, drawn by the promise of Vietnamese broth and truly exceptional prices. Rich, flavourful beef pho is but one of many varieties of soup; the expansive menu also contains impressive sel­ections of vermicelli, rice and house special dishes. Cold spring rolls— a crunchy mix of vege­tables and shrimp—are a good place to start; but a wholesome bowl of chicken congee provides a welcome alternative in winter weather. Tender and succulent, a fillet of salted earthenware-cooked fish derives most of its flavour from its delightfully peppery sauce. A wide variety of coffees, cold drinks and milkshakes provides alternatives to the small alcohol sel­ection.