Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
good
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Enveloped in clear glass and filled with stream-like sounds from the trickling water wall, this blissfully serene space is a little oasis on bustling Baldwin Street. Relaxation is easily achieved when service is this seamless. Well-timed courses begin with sambal udang, which brings huge, juicy shrimp in a sticky, sweet, chili-zinged tamarind glaze; the heat is effectively countered by a nicely balanced, fresh-tasting green mango salad. Plump chicken satay is flavourful, its ubiquitous peanut sauce thick, pleasantly grainy and just sweet enough. Mee goreng—a quintessential Southeast Asian dish—comes sizzling hot and treats every ingredient as an important part of the whole: bean sprouts are still crunchy, tofu is browned to perfection, shrimp are perfectly cooked, and spicing is deft. Nasi goreng, requested spicy, brings heat along with a generous portion of tender chicken, chopped carrot and very green beans. Wonderfully unique desserts include a screwpine-leaf crêpe filled with vanilla ice cream and coconut. A wine list with an impressive selection of Canadian bottles is a pleasant surprise. Mains $13–$20.
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