An enormous menu of Vietnamese and Thai dishes delivers some pleasing surprises in this chain restaurant. Lemon chicken soup, with corn, field mushroom and pineapple, brings a heavenly broth with soaring notes of hot pepper, coriander and garlic—it’s best to ask for more than the average (very mild) chili heat. Bland fresh salad rolls filled with beef satay, cucumber and vermicelli could use similar heat treatment and are a bit too loosely wrapped. Thai chili chicken with cashews delivers a good punch of heat and lots of nutty crunch. The house specialty is whole Dungeness crab, offered in seven preparations. Served with nut crackers, the wok-fried version with chilies, garlic, green peppers and fermented black beans becomes a finger-licking labour of love, as decorum is abandoned to crack shells and scrape out every morsel of meat. Upper-shell tamalley is particularly delicious. Airline-style hand towels brought by friendly servers are very welcome. Iced coffees made with condensed milk are fun, but overly sweet desserts lack sophistication. Small wine list. Mains $9–$24.