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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 603 King St. W. (at Portland St.) View on map »
  • 416-504-7867
Editorial Review

The relaxed atmosphere, thumping beat and tapas-style menu provide a casual alternative to the mother ship next door. Susur Lee’s signature style—an elegant fusion of Asian and European ingredients and techniques—is, however, still the primary allure. A helpful server recommends Singa­por­ean slaw, a 19-ingredient masterpiece featuring julienne carrot, crispy vermicelli, daikon and fried taro matchsticks with crunchy peanuts. Thick, well-salted lamb chops harmonize with pineapple, mint and banana fritters, though a plate of limp fried tofu is upstaged by accompanying spicy-sweet red pepper and mushroom compote. Perfectly cooked B.C. scallops crown confited lemon purée; the bacon wrapping the bivalves could stand more crisping. Warm chocolate and walnut tart with featherlight mousse provides a graceful finish. Affordable wines by the glass and bottle. Tapas $6–$17.

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