The narrow space, painted an appealing olive, is an anomaly at Gerrard and Broadview, where fluorescent-lit grunge rules. But the real star at Hanoi 3 Seasons is the north Vietnamese fare, rarely found in Toronto and highlighted by intriguing spicing. Turmeric perfumes chopped clams goosed with chili heat and served with crunchy rice crackers; stains chunks of grouper perched atop vermicelli, lettuce, basil and coriander leaves; and is sweetened, tableside, with a fish sauce–spiked vinaigrette. Desserts are disappointing.