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RestaurantsMiddle Eastern

The Pomegranate

Reviewed by Toronto LifeAromas of sweet spice and citrus greet diners at the door of this homey Persian eatery. A starter of maast-o-khiar, a tangy and thick herbed yogurt, is loaded with raisins, crunchy walnuts and cool cucumber, then sprinkled with magenta rose dust. A salad plate of creamy goat milk feta seems salty until chased with walnut halves, slices of crisp radish and sprigs of fresh tarragon, mint and parsley. Mains come with a vibrant display of mild basmati and saffron rice, mixed greens, rose-dusted yogurt and a forgettable salad of tomato, cucumber and red onion. Fesenjan, the classic stew of ground walnuts and mouth-puckering pomegranate, doesn’t skimp on flavour (some will find it too strong). Succulent braised lamb shank is flavoured with cinnamon and falls from the bone. Accompanying rice is bejewelled with tart dried barberries, candied slivers of Seville orange peel, almonds and pistachios. There is good value on the wine list. Mains $9–$15.

  • map marker #1
    420 College St. (at Bathurst)

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