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RestaurantsMidday

School Bakery and Café

  • 70 Fraser Ave. (at Liberty St.) View on map »
  • 416-588-0005

Reviewed by Toronto LifeChef Brad Moore’s menus read like Homeric epics of gustatory debauchery: the taco- and ceviche-heavy Mexican dinner menu makes choosing a single dish difficult, and the pancake and eggs brunch menu features a number of promising morning-after-the-night-before remedies. Unfortunately, the kitchen fails to live up to the potential. Juicy, chili-inflected fried chicken with tantalizingly crispy skin dazzles, but the more authentic south-of-the-border supper items, like an insipid red snapper ceviche and soggy, undercooked churros, demonstrate clear failures of execution. Brunch follows a regrettably similar pattern. Fluffy pancakes heaped with sweet blackberries and blueberries soften the frustration of waiting 20 minutes to order; flaccid home fries swimming in grease and doughy, bland cardamom biscuits do not. Worse, the coffee is watery and bitter. Mains $15–$24.

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