Restaurants GuideMidday

Mercatto

Reviewed by Toronto Life
Editorial Review

A renovation has taken this booming downtown lunch spot ever so slightly upmarket, and an Enomatic wine-serving system that preserves open bottles with nitrogen adds considerable heft to the by-the-glass list. In spite of a larger sel­ection of antipasti, the food is the same as ever: dependable salads and thin-crust pizzas backed by decent pastas and a smattering of daily specials. A pasta special of paccheri (they’re like manicotti, but without the ridges) stuffed with spinach and fresh ricotta is sauced in a sharp marinara sauce—trad trattoria cooking, but fresher tasting. A grilled octopus salad finds large, smoky prawns and tender-sweet octopus tendrils on good arugula and sliced fennel. The pizzas are the best reason to eat here, with 15 very good selections. Service varies from efficient to slow and ill timed. Closed Sunday.

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