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RestaurantsMidday

Hank’s $30 Gourmet [?]

  • 9 1/2 Church St. (at the Esplanade) View on map »
  • 647-288-0670

Reviewed by Toronto LifeRiding the summer success of Gilead Café, Jamie Kennedy quietly converted the front room at JK Wine Bar into a quaint lunch stop last fall. The new spot, which plays on Kennedy’s first name, Henry, is a savvy repurposing of the space, drawing people in for local, seasonal snacks without much expense or fuss. Unlike Gilead, this spot is as much a coffee shop as it is a place for artisanal sandwiches. Baristas, the kind schooled in froth art, turn out rich lattes and deliver them to low, café-style tables. The food isn’t exciting, but it’s the same feel-good fare we’ve come to expect: rich soups and stews, rustic bread brought in from St. John’s bakery (what’s the deal, JK?) and thick sandwiches made from locally sourced meats and veg. The mushroom sammie is a concoction of sun-dried tomatoes, smoked farmhouse cheddar, sautéed shiitakes and beet sprouts that takes both hands to eat. Skip the so-so brownie and go for the life-changing pecan pie. For those not indulging in coffee, nostalgic Pop Shoppe pop and a small selection of beer and wine hit the spot. From Thursday to Saturday, pre-dinner cocktails and bar snacks are served. Service can be a tad clumsy but is charming nonetheless.

  • map marker #1
    9 1/2 Church St. (at the Esplanade)
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