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Hank’s $30 Gourmet [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeScott and Rachelle Vivian left last summer to start their own restaurant (Beast), but fellow Jamie Kennedy protégé Bryan Burke has returned to Hank’s and the neighbouring Wine Bar after a stint at Joy Bistro. The decor is simple and rustic, with church pews, chalkboards, butcher-block tables and kitschy mason jars for water glasses. Open only for lunch (we’re told dinner service is coming later this fall), the vibe is laid-back; local cubicle and condo dwellers linger over salads and sammies. Grilled asparagus are complemented nicely by a crisp frisée salad and a pleasantly tart chervil-infused dijonnaise. “Romaine salad” arrives constructed from leaf lettuce, but the gentler flavoured greens are perfect for the dish’s light and briny caesar-style vinaigrette (though it’s too bad about the kibble-hard croutons). A phone-it-in-bland wrap of roasted peppers, creminis and goat cheese disappoints. Fish and chips offers two large chunks of gorgeously moist Ontario pickerel in a toasty hoagie-like beer batter, but dry fries are a far cry from Kennedy’s Platonically plump specimens. A small wine card offers interesting variety. Friendly but listless servers.

  • map marker #1
    9 1/2 Church St. (at the Esplanade)
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