In clement weather, the smart money opts for the patio, although the cheerily cramped bifurcated indoor space, all vintage Formica tables and mismatched chairs, is admittedly as beguiling as ever. The brekkie-and-lunch-focused menu also charms. Regulars start off the morning with cinnamon-scented French toast made from thick-cut challah; soaked with excellent real maple syrup and sided with peameal bacon, it’s the urbane lumberjack’s breakfast. The daily omelette is generously stuffed with strips of sweet yellow pepper, chopped onion and mild cheddar. Cash only. Unlicensed.