On a balmy summer evening, surrounded by the graceful curves of preserved, cocoa-coloured palm leaves set against whitewashed walls, it’s easy to forget you’re in the heart of the concrete jungle. Savouring the bracing acidity and chipotle heat of tender octopus ceviche while sipping a salty-sour margarita enhances the effect. Ancho chilies stuffed with goat cheese satisfy, but this two-note main course needs some three-part harmony, while the chin-dribbling juices of cochinita pibil—slow-roasted strands of pork shoulder marinated in achiote and orange—testify to the dish’s succulence. Side dishes merit special attention, especially revelatory cebollitas al carbon: sweet, grilled green onions with fresh lime. Servers rightly sing the praises of natilla de cajeta, a sumptuous caramelized goat’s milk custard with a brûlée crust. Mains $17–$27.