“This is not a restaurant—it’s a taqueria!” says co-owner Lucero Lopez, and the crowd at the sidewalk tables will drink to that. Rainbow-coloured walls and bright, native pictures can’t hide the homespun decor, but that isn’t the point. People come for the carefully seasoned bean soup and slender quesadillas, but it’s tacos that keep the place buzzing. Tacos al pastor, Mexico City style, are the specialty: aromatically spiced pork with a perfect blend of pineapple, coriander, onion and a squeeze of lime folded in a soft corn tortilla. Fare is so authentic and well-made it could very well start a revolution.