Framed maps of Mexico and a TV playing Spanish soap operas may constitute the decor at this Mexican-run cantina, but this ain’t no Chi Chi’s—it’s the real deal. Freshly mashed avocados mixed with diced onions and cilantro make for a salty guacamole with a lingering hint of lime. Tacos Alambre, filled with juicy cubes of beef, soft green pepper and caramelized diced onion, arrive in warm, fresh corn tortillas. A main of carne tampiqueña (thin, greasy flank steak served with mole sauce, rice and beans) is spectacular—the chocolatey mole builds a sweet heat around the beef. Crunchy yet doughy cinnamon-sugar churros are helped along by cold, spicy cheladas (cocktails of beer, chili and lime juice) and other tequila-based drinks.