Owned by an Israeli who studied under New York restaurateur Daniel Boulud, this small bistro of dark wood, framed mirrors and Edith Piaf tracks has substantially elevated the city’s kosher scene. The short French menu changes weekly and is accented by Caribbean and Asian touches. For example, a pile of tender sweetbreads is served atop garlicky sautéed spinach in a sweet-and-sour bordelaise. Moist pieces of roast squab breast are served on a thick Israeli couscous with root vegetables, the fowl’s skin flavoured with hints of anise and allspice. For dessert, a fluffy bittersweet chocolate soufflé. Small, well- chosen wine list. Mains $26–$38.