The comforting aroma of charcoal provides a warm welcome at this popular Korean DIY barbecue joint. Gleaming stainless steel hoods hover over each table, keeping the room smoke-free. To begin, vegetable tempura brings squash, and white yam in a light, crunchy coating. Gyoza-style beef dumplings are elevated by a drizzle of honey-soy glaze. For the main event, the table­top grill is fired and greased with a chunk of beef fat. Beef short ribs are the specialty, cut thin and marinated in a citrusy red wine and soy barbecue sauce that caramelizes when it hits the grill. The same sauce coats a seafood platter of shrimp, squid and Kiwi mussels. The waitress gets the food sizzling, keeping an eye on rookies. Non-barbecue mains include a giant savoury pancake packed with shrimp, squid, scallions or fiery kimchee. Mains $10–$25.