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RestaurantsKorean

Korean Grill House

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe newest outpost of this carnivore-loving empire is hardly cozy. A wide staircase leads from Yonge Street up to the cavernous dining room—all dark grey and silver with scarlet accents. The humming of venti­lation fans is barely covered by the dignified pomp of military marches playing on the stereo, but the music underscores the seriousness of the all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue at hand. Beef, pork and chicken are done right in a sweet marinade, and ox-tongue and liver are flavourful without augmentation. Fish and squid are fresh and well grilled. Non-grilled items are hit-and-miss: bi bim bap is sizzling with tender shrimp, morsels of chicken and beef nestled in tangy rice, but dumplings are over-fried to leatheriness. Wash it all down with ginseng tea or mango juice brought by pleasant if diffident servers.

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