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RestaurantsKorean

Korean Grill House

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe newest outpost of this carnivore-loving empire is hardly cozy. A wide staircase leads from Yonge Street up to the cavernous dining room—all dark grey and silver with scarlet accents. The humming of ventilation fans is barely covered by the dignified pomp of military marches playing on the stereo, but the music underscores the seriousness of the all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue at hand. Beef, pork and chicken are done right in a sweet marinade, and ox tongue and liver are flavourful without augmentation. Fish and squid are fresh and well grilled. Non-grilled items are hit-and-miss: bibm bahb is sizzling with tender shrimp, morsels of chicken and beef nestled in tangy rice, but dumplings are over-fried to leatheriness. Wash it all down with ginseng tea brought by pleasant if diffident servers.

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