Tucked into one of Scarborough’s grittier strip malls and populated largely by faithful regulars, Seiichi Kashiwabara’s excellent little sushi place doesn’t get half the attention it deserves. Kashiwabara’s fish sel­ection is one of Toronto’s best, and he and sous-chef Hiroshi Takeuchi treat it with artistry and care. Creamy-textured Portuguese squid is scored with precise tiny squares so that it falls apart at the bite; sashimi of salty, crunchy giant clam plays beautifully off fine-marbled fresh Canadian bluefin. Fine sushi of fluke is touched with yuzu zest and a bead of wasabi; Spanish mackerel is served with ground ginger and green onion. Kashiwabara’s tempura sea eel, plated with a lemon wedge and a tiny bowl of Okinawa snow salt, is crisp, buttery and beautifully flavoured—city fish and chips shops take note. Sushi lovers should gun for seats at the bar. Desserts, rarely a high point in Japanese restaurants, are excellent: retro cream pie made with tinned mandarin wedges, or deep-fried green tea ice cream, laden with fresh fruit. Mains $12–$45.