Restaurants › Japanese
Zen
- 2803 Eglinton Ave. E. (at Danforth Rd.) • View on map »
- 416-265-7111
A seedy strip plaza—with its convenience stores and questionable massage parlour—is not the usual setting for great culinary treasures. But pass through the nondescript metal and glass door and you’re in an oasis: the atmosphere in this diminutive 36-seater is warm and welcoming, with eight spots at the sushi bar and two cozy tatami booths. Japanese expats fill the seats, deliver gorgeous-looking food and slice the fish. Wide ribbons of seaweed and cubes of wobbly tofu come topped with umami-packed, dressed surimi, and tempura is perfectly crispy and greaseless. A small piece of achingly good miso-glazed black cod is buttery and tender, and it arrives starkly unadorned on a fragment of banana leaf; meanwhile, the cold, silky soba are merely average. Rolls of salmon with avocado, and yellowtail with green onion, melt in the mouth, and there’s plenty of vegetarian maki on the menu too. Desserts—red bean paste in jelly and homemade mandarin cream pie—go from authentic to unnatural. The wine list is something of an afterthought, so stick to either sweet plum wine or choose warm or cold sake from a generous list. Mains $14.50–$49.50.
2803 Eglinton Ave. E. (at Danforth Rd.)
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