A better-than-average sushi joint on one of the finest restaurant blocks in the city, Shinji Mori’s cheerful room has developed a loyal following. With bleached hair and rock star looks, the young chef is anything but traditional, and his sushi shows accordingly modern flair. Mori makes nigiri from thick slices of foie gras, searing them with a hand-held torch; he stuffs a nori roll with a secret explosive concoction of chili, oil and pepper. The restaurant’s more typical offerings—the usual sashimi and nigiri from a decent sel­ection of fish—are far less interesting. A plate of steamed sweet potato and Japanese mountain potato, offered as part of the omakase menu ($50, order 24 hours ahead), seems a little too rustic, ragged and unadorned. Another hot dish, eggplant sandwiching deep-fried shrimp and jalapeño, doesn’t lack taste, though a few seconds of draining would improve it. Twenty types of sake are available. Small plates $7–$15, mains $15–$29.