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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 22 Front St. W. (at Yonge) View on map »
  • 416-862-1891
Editorial Review

The aquamarine room glows with an undersea vibe as diners rush in for reliable—not exceptional, but good—maki and sake before the curtain goes up or the puck drops nearby. The menu features fresh and traditional selections without any of the cheeseburger and steak rolls that are so ubiquitous these days. A shrimp tempura appetizer comes with flavoured salts in lieu of ponzu sauce, but the batter overwhelms the featured prawns, and the salt seems to be the only flavour. The nimble sushi chef expertly prepares traditional sushi, including melt-in-the-mouth albacore tuna and buttery scallops, though a ruby slice of fatty tuna is disconcertingly flaccid. Seaweed salad is the meal’s highlight: a jumbled variety of shredded seaweed laid out on ice, each bite so alive, elastic and briny, it unleashes the otter within. Service is friendly, if harried. Closed Sunday. Mains $18–$26; omakase $65–$105.

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