Chef-owner Mitsuhiro Kaji’s peerless command of classic Japanese cuisine combined with well-structured creativity is evident in every morsel of food on his epic omakase menus ($80, $100 or $120). On this night, it all starts with an ethereal, sweet squid cake robed in tender napa cabbage and set in a pool of richly flavoured dashi broth. Snow crab legs and a silky Japanese crab risotto are set off by grilled sea bream topped with sweet nori paste. Kaji juxtaposes delicate and intense flavours and textures in the sashimi and sushi courses, which might be the best in Canada. Outstanding sashimi includes barely charred slices of ocean trout on mitsuba (a Japanese herb), and tender octopus graced with fresh sansho leaves. For sushi, a seasoned sea eel and rice mixture, bound beautifully in a bamboo leaf, is paired with loosely formed squares of rice topped with warm freshwater eel. Everything is cut and assembled by a true master’s hand. Excellent sakes are offered along with Japanese beer and shochu. Service is nimble and alert.