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RestaurantsJapanese

Sushi Inn

Reviewed by Toronto LifeSpeed replaces refinement as bento boxes and teriyaki plates are whipped out to tables of first-daters and after-work minglers at this ever-popular two-storey Yorkville place. Unlike at similar establishments along Queen or Bloor, a window seat at Sushi Inn gives you a prime view of the luxury vehicles circling the block on any given summer night. Sushi Inn’s non-fussy menu is filled with generic favourites; its hurried army of red and black brocade–robed staff ensures quick table turnaround. A thin teriyaki crust shields impossibly tender grilled yellowtail collar. The buttery sweet flesh makes us forget about our first starter: a pile of leathery grilled eggplant drizzled with a grainy, saccharine miso paste. The Dragon Roll D features a rope of soggy tempura shrimp with wet caked-on sushi rice that’s topped with an over-broiled sliver of barbecue eel. Faith is restored, however, with a rice-less salmon salad roll that successfully juxtaposes a supple raw salmon wrapper with buttery avocado, crunchy fish roe and refreshing shredded cucumber core. Creamy green-tea ice cream completes the cheap and cheerful experience.

  • map marker #1
    120 Cumberland St. (at Belair St.)

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