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RestaurantsJapanese

Solo Sushi-Ya

Reviewed by Toronto LifeDrive far enough up the 404 and you’ll discover two things: not only are there more stars in the sky, but there’s also this one tucked in a poky strip plaza. Master sushi chef Jyo Gao has been slicing meltingly soft fish in this cozy room for nine years, yet he’s as passionate about ingredients, tradition, nutrition (don’t even get him started on vegetarianism) and the art of sushi as a newbie. (Trust us, you’ll be star-struck, too.) The thick menu has pages and pages dedicated to an impressive selection of sakes, as well as sashimi, maki rolls, noodles and, for the adventurous, omakase ($55). Flavours are delicate, texture is paramount, and the presentation consistently artful. A tiny pickled wild mountain peach arrives alongside tuna, smoked mackerel, and burdock root wrapped in beef. Pork gyoza are crispy and light as air. A green apple–soy milk custard is the perfect finish. Reverential service. Mains $20–$28.

  • map marker #1
    291 Davis Dr. (at Yonge), Newmarket

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