Prepared by years of experience at Nami and Take Sushi, Yoshi Tsuji took over this simple sushi spot earlier in the year. Furnishings are basic, and the menu sticks to familiar territory, with an emphasis on reasonably priced sushi of impeccable freshness. Given 24 hours’ notice, however, Tsuji offers omakase ($60, $70 or $80), expanding the repertoire to include authentic rural Japanese dishes that account for the high proportion of Japanese customers. The meal might begin with fresh green peas in chilled dashi broth. A dish of vegetables includes two asparagus spears in an egg yolk and vinegar sauce, a whole steamed baby turnip filled with minced chicken and chive, and a wheel of cucumber stuffed with chopped eel and tangy-sweet pickled gobo root. Salmon and whitefish are cooked in paper and served with a bundle of baby spinach and rich roasted eggplant topped with sesame and black miso. Grilled steak is less interesting, the bland meat topped with fancifully carved carrot and yam. Tsuji folds slices of pickled mackerel around shiso and rice like the petals of a flower. Friendly service. Token beers and sake. Mains $10–$25.