Le tout Oakville jams this minimalist space— a stalwart for 21 years—which is decked out in bare, pale green walls and soothing light woods. Completing the scene are a private tatami room, bustling sushi bar and cozy front space with a glowing fireplace. There are plenty of options beyond the traditional Japanese carte, including the chef’s omakase ($65) and the seven-course set dinner for two ($45 each), which offers terrific value. Leading off are cold, crisp bean sprouts and chicken tinged with miso, paper-thin tuna carpaccio, and chilled cucumber salad with a tiny crab claw and seaweed in soy vinaigrette. Other highlights include teriyaki-glazed salmon, crisp-battered tempura of lotus root, zucchini, red pepper and shrimp, and cubes of fork-tender grilled steak paired with sautéed mushrooms, cauliflower and broccoli. Dessert brings sliced oranges, grapefruit and grapes with not-too-sweet homemade green tea ice cream. Service is sweetly deferential but a little slow. Mains $17.50–$31.