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RestaurantsJapanese

Mye

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe rooms of this minimalist space (four plus a private tatami booth)—beige on cream on avocado green, blond wood and a flock of appliqué cranes in flight over the sushi bar—are a blank canvas for the plates and wooden ships of perfect sushi being ferried to linen-draped tables. On the walls, displays of more than 1,000 sake cups—delicate, individual, beautiful pieces of stoneware, glass and wood—give pause en route to the table. The atmosphere is zen and quiet, but jovial, with conversation definitely taking a back seat to the rapture induced by fantastic sushi and Japanese dishes. Wide ribbons of seaweed and cucumber are lemon-spiked; tempura lotus root, okra and other veg are crunchy and greaseless; and maki of salmon, avocado and tobiko are meltingly soft and impeccably fresh. Silky black cod in miso is charred at the edges, lightly cooked and buttery through and through; a side of mixed greens is dressed in a sweet and tangy miso vinaigrette (available by the bottle to take home). The only misstep is the clumsysteak with seafood dinner. The dish was too salty and the scallops over-cooked—a real shame next to super-tender and tasty AAA Angus steak. Imaginative and fantastic desserts—a trio of rich crème brûlées (green tea, cranberry, maple) and mocha, ice cream–filled glutinous rice—are a treat. Decent sake and wine lists; attentive, friendly service. Mains $14.50–$32; omakase $75.

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