In a perfect world, every neighbourhood would have such a comfortable and reliable restaurant offering solid such examples of Japanese cuisine. The Danforth is blessed with this gracious and unassuming bistro, the well-made food casually and lovingly served by owner and staff. The omakase ($86 for two) introduces diners to the charms of simple Japanese cooking: dashi broth delicately floats a scallop, a shrimp and a slice of fish; a small sashimi sampler consists of fresh salmon, snapper and white tuna; a selection of sushi is accompanied by the freshest garnishes: seaweed salad and miso-sauced rapini, eggplant or okra. The concise menu offers nicely assembled traditional sushi and sashimi plates, crispy tempura and grilled fish and chicken. Modern North American trends in sushi are also very well represented: for example, nicely balanced fried sushi rolls stuffed with canned tuna and topped with buttery, fresh white tuna and avocado. The surprisingly balanced taste and texture is evidence of a careful hand in the kitchen. A simple assortment of sake and wine rounds out the pleasant offerings. Mains $15–$20.