Soaring ceilings, a raised dining area surrounded by peaceful ponds and two bars—one cocktail, one sushi—welcome Bay Street types and the well-heeled young set eager for contemporary Japanese cuisine in a sumptuous setting. Helpful servers suggest such popular items as miso chowder, which is creamy but heavy on the truffle oil. More traditional kushiyaki grilled items include a satisfying sake-braised pork belly skewer. All is well with nigiri sushi and sashimi, but the soul of the restaurant lies in the well-intentioned but unevenly executed cold and hot plates. The toro tower offers fatty tuna belly with garlic ponzu sauce and fried shallots, an interesting and successful flavour combination that’s marred by sloppy fish cutting. There’s a tendency toward too much sweet-and-sourness in an otherwise nice flame-seared squid. It’s evidence of a skilled kitchen in need of slight adjustments. A broad but expensive sake list and decent wines tailored to the clientele’s tastes instead of the food. Small plates $5–$19.