Chef Daisuke Izutsu plays with the notion of kaiseki cuisine in delightful ways, integrating an informal Western aesthetic into both his dishes and the modern decor. Expert servers explain every nuance of monthly omakase menus and the small list of à la carte dishes; drink accompaniments feature lively Japanese-inspired cocktails. On this night, a bland amuse of soy milk jelly, wasabi and underripe fig begins the meal on the wrong foot, but the next courses compensate with finesse: citrus-perfumed noodles swim in a steaming bowl of bonito broth studded with a savoury shrimp dumpling, followed by an unforgettable sashimi plate of Japanese sea bass and a rich yet tart heirloom tomato and blowtorched salmon combination. Overcooked strands of squid dressed in lobster sauce disappoint, as does the unwelcome prickle of conger eel bones in an otherwise excellent bowl of crab-laced dashi broth with flavourful fried sesame tofu—under a more accomplished kaiseki chef, the bones would be imperceptible. Izutsu’s signature dish, excellent beef tongue braised in red miso, exemplifies his willingness to experiment with ingredients. The selection of mixed drinks is excellent, but they don’t always reach the table quickly. Omakase menus $80, $100 and $120.