Ramen may be just a noodle, but in Japan it is a meal in a bowl elevated to an art form. This recently opened Koreatown spot specializes in gorgeously assembled ramen soups with fresh noodles from a Japanese purveyor. The noodles are long, springy and slightly firm, and absorb one of several rich, salty broths based on pork, beef or creamy miso-soy stock. Into each bowl go slices of braised pork, slivers of spongy fish cake, bean sprouts and other trimmings, such as seaweed, green onions and boiled eggs. Everything is assembled with care; the broths and noodles are made daily, and the pork is cut by hand for each bowl. Those craving more solid fare can opt for sizzling Korean-style short ribs or chili-dusted chicken yakitori with whole cloves of garlic, shiitake caps and luscious dark meat.