The dreary room lacks ambience, with its garish lighting and tired furniture, but the brilliant food in this tiny King East sushi stalwart more than compensates. The smart money sits at the sushi counter to watch master chef Hiro Yoshida at work. The à la carte menu offers such delights as grilled, tamari-marinated black cod served with ginger-infused sticky brown rice. Unctuous, lemon-infused roasted tilefish is the star of the hot plates. Chef Hiro’s sushi includes impeccable sashimi, as well as nigiri with butterfish of meltingly divine texture and richness, tender salmon crowned with a pinch of fresh garlic, and a toothsome tamari shiitake cap. Such maki rolls as yellow­tail tuna and tempura shrimp are delicately sweet. Excellent sake selection. Service is pleasant, though distracted. Mains $20–$30.