Shelves full of souvenirs and other tchotchkes add homey clutter to the room. Sushi master Hiro Yoshida likes listening to jazz while preparing his omakase dishes ($70 for four plates). Behind the sushi counter, 10 bar seats are usually reserved well in advance by loyal regulars. The experience may begin with a delicate, clear sunomono broth containing a robust dumpling of stone-ground buckwheat topped with slivers of grilled green onion and king crab leg. Inside the dumpling are chunks of flavourful shrimp. A trio of appetizers might include ruby-red tuna sashimi pungent with fresh garlic; a pillow of vinegared mashed potato supporting a single slice of a duck breast that has been seared, poached in sake and soy, then steamed to tenderness. However, Yoshida’s nigiri sushi is the reason to be here; it’s perfectly sliced from whatever fish or seafood was purchased that morning. Buttery escolar is heavenly when briefly smoked, and toro feels like foie gras when cured in rock salt. Spanish mackerel’s texture clenches when anointed with hot oil. Hot kitchen dishes change seasonally. On this visit, the emphasis is on two-person presentations, such as a Mediterranean-influenced pot au feu of whole steamed sea robin (the soft white flesh parting into juicy flakes at the touch of a chopstick) with thick squid rings, tender clams, braised onion and cooked tomato flesh. Dessert might be mascarpone custard in a hollowed, warm sugar pear that’s garnished with berries and grapes. Token wines and a handful of beers are eclipsed by half a dozen good-quality sakes. Mains $20–$24.